Bike route 2014


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Monday, 4 March 2013

Breaking down days...

From Bang Khok to Nam Pat we rode in a valley, nice to feel some flat land again, riding fast and leaving a few points on the map behind us, it makes it feel like you are actually going somewhere.
The little town of Nam Pat seemed more of a big city to us, it had a quite big market and some nice stalls to drink coffee or shakes, sit around and watch life pass by.
The moment we arrived we both thought "rest day!".
Unfortunately our laziness soon turned into mission to get us straight for the road again, in fact in this tree days several things happened: we got sick for a couple of days, our camping stove let us down and i had to fix my soon exploding tyre.

Perhaps i should have thought, that a tyre which already rode 5000km,  1000 of them on a dirt track through the Australian desert, might not be suited for another bike trip...what a bike mechanic!

The burner got clogged by some M150 (a popular Thai energy drink), the kerosene we bought was sold in those bottles and it gave the same result as pouring sugar into an engine.
My tire got fixed with a double patch made out of a truck inner tube and a scooter tyre, all stuffed into my own tyre. About our sickness...a day on the toilet did it.

Pretty broken too!

What a task when you set your mind on doing nothing!

Shitty-ing times at the resort, lovely place
The town offered us a pleasant accommodation that eased out the whole process and the last day we met Jack, one of the two brothers owning the resort.
He introduced himself the same morning we where leaving, trust us, Nam Pat is nice, but after tree days there you really want to go! We had a short chat with him and a walk to the big fair that also took place on that day, what a great timing. He bought us some snacks for the road, and we took off.




Riding to the fair

Getting out of town


Saturday, 2 March 2013

Na Haeo to Bang Khok

This morning was really fresh, it often happens when we are close to the mountains, sometimes at night it's even cold, probably because we are use to stand 35 degrees during the day, so when it drops to 20, it feels like it's freezing! Fortunately we had a warm cup of coffee brought to our doorstep, which often happens at resorts in Thailand.     We rolled back into town and bought some rice for our usual "rice and banana snack" after 30 km of cycling; and then left a bit worried, if what we had was enough calories, to keep us going through the hills.
The mountain is waiting for us!
We rode through some villages and flat land at first, it was almost as if the landscape wanted us to forget about the mountains ahead...All of a sudden we noticed a pickup truck on the side of the road, with a lot of plastic bags hanging from it. Local people and flies where surrounding it, giving the impression something very much needed was sold there!

The very well appreciated market pick up
Once close to it, we found out it was a rolling market, passing from town to town selling veggies, and not so great looking meat and fish -that's what the flies where on to! I guess this is the way to keep fed all these small villages that has no markets.
The locals wondered what business two like us had to do there, but once they saw we knew what it was about, they started pushing their products.
It really saved our day, we got a big bag of veggies, well as big as you can fit on a bike, and got two meals out of it.
There it was at km 20, the wall was waiting for us, it was hard to get to the top but for some reason , maybe the good experience from earlier on, we got on it and got rewarded with an amazing view and a sign telling us we where on a pass 1115m high. (hard to believe once i biked 4 time as high as that  with my good friend now home with a flat tire ;) all my love dude).
The 4 km downhill that came afterwards where pleasant too, after the experience, the rest of the day seamed like nothing.
We got to the village of Romklao, another nothing, and pushed through to the botanical garden, where we knew we could camp.
To get up there tough, we had some crazy steep 2 km to go, which we were not ready for, but once on top another surprise: toilet, showers and even Internet!

Camping at the botanical garden, what a luxury

The day after, we finally had some luck with the hills starting with a long descent, which brought us to a police checkpoint on a intersection, i noticed a boiler under a roof and told Stine, we may get some water out of the cops for a warm coffee. Once we stopped, we realised the place was actually a tourist stop where coffee was available for free and from the pictures on the wall, other cyclist passed by and camped there.

The intersection, free coffee and accommodation, only happens outside the western world
Our new friend, a cop , who would have ever said!

The cop in charge was really excited and took lots of pictures, could tell he loved it, exchanged some words and let us rest a bit. We both thought that the next time we come through,  we'll skip the camping uphill and go straight for this place!
From here on we biked through a long stretch of beautiful, green jungle, passing  waterfalls and having great view of Phu Soi Dao, a big mountain in a national park overlooking the area. This is one of the very few places in Thailand, where tigers can still be found and riding around it, i was  glad it got turned into a national park because once out of there, not a tree is left standing.
Instead pineapple plantations rule the landscape between one village and another. Lunch time was getting close and once again a pickup shop saved the day.

Phu Soi Dao waterfall provides another amazing camp spot...just mind the tigers...

Some jungle riding pictures


Cooking under a bus stop, we noticed some people taking something down from a tree, using a long bamboo stick. It was a red ants nest, a great construction, the size of a coconut made of leafs somehow glued together, something you would say a bird made.
Once on the ground, it was laid on a tray and let to rest for a while, until the angry ants had left in panic, i felt like the bite of this insect was pretty painful and the distance those people where taking from it, confirmed my fears, i guess a whole nest can seriously injure you!
Finally the ants abandoned their house and by shaking the nest, a woman was getting larva out of it, it looked like spelt grains, i often seen it sold in markets, but i would never have guessed what it really was!

What an emotions packed day! Now we only had some few km left before getting to our first "big town" in a while. We heard this place was bigger than other villages we previously passed and people loved to remark, "it even has a supermarket!".





Sunday, 24 February 2013

16-2-2013 Ciang Kham to Na Haeo





1000km pictures, finally
Two days it took us through this two towns, very ready to leave Chiang Khan and excited about the hills ahead.





The firs day has been pretty confusing, we took a couple of wrong turns and had different opinions about what to do.
Beside that the road has been very interesting, lets call it a dirt track more than a road!
We had to cycle on a very rough surface, i didn't think this could happen in Thailand, and the second day the climb began with three hills to go over.



The road got pretty rough this couple of days

To me  the first one was the killer a 3 or 4 km climb with some of those typical Thai up hills that u can barely cycle on, i wish it was possible to capture it on pictures; but every climb was  rewarded with a descend, hard to enjoy though cause we had to keep concentrated in avoiding the many holes or not sliding on the gravel.

Fire along the road completely out of control was burning quite a big area, at least the flames weren't too high

On the second one we found a bush fire as if it wasn't hard enough to catch your breath, the smoke went straight down your longs.
On the other end we had a great shelter for our afternoon brake with a nice view over a valley and big rocks sticking out from the ground.
Day two we where in Na Haeo and had planned to stock up in food for the following couple of days since we dint know if we would make it to a town or had to camp, well, not much food there! Just a shop and a restaurant, at least we made it there, shop what we could and kept on going...

Amazing lunch spot

Could take a rest day in this shed!

The road made it hard to enjoy downhills

The end of the day in Na Haeo

Saturday, 23 February 2013

When the going gets tough.


What a week it's been!! Some crazy days on the bike, driving through fields, jungle, plantations, national parks, nothing-ness and small villages. It's been amazing and it's been hard. There's been some looooong downhills and some unpleasant steep uphills (i even had to get of the bike a few time and push).
1160 m high, no wonder my face is so red.

 I know my shape is not the best, but damn, those thais sure spank that steepness sometimes, now i even have to change my break pads!
Well, enough wining, cause really, it's been totally worth the pain and sweat getting on top of those hills, enjoying the mountain views (to go downhill and then doing it all over again).


Yez, sorted once again; The veggies wagon has arrived!
The scenery has been priceless and we finally found some of that Thailand we both thought didn't exist anymore. It's such a different world out there among the small villages, far away from tourists, 7 elevens and tescos, makes you wish the whole country was still like that. How many times we didn't get invited for food, people brought us drinks or snacks, even though they don't have much to give. You wish you could give people something in return, but usually we don't carry much else than some veggies (witch looks like something you pull out of a Copenhagen dumpster on a hot July day), bananas and piss warm water -not exactly what you wanna offer people. Everyday we talk about what would be nice to bring down to people next time, but what do you bring from Denmark to such an exotic place that has everything? Rugbroed?? Maybe some Java Bov?? Yak!


Going downhill, weeeee!
And going uphill..hmm..

Well after a week in this amazing adventure, we're hooked on some more and are now planning where to go next. We have to make a visa run to Laos by the 6th of marts and after that, we'll probably stick around the north for a while, doing some more of those rural areas. 
As for now, we're taking a few days of in a small town called Nam Pad, trying to recover from a minor shitting disease, before we head north to Na Noi and Nan, passing through a water reservoir (sirikit dam) and some more hills.



This is just one of the type of jugles we passed, fresh and green.





13/2/2013 Nong Khai to Chiang Khan

Hard to get out of bed after such a long rest!

Narrow and busy 211 highway out of Nong Khai

Tobacco drying along the road
The first part of the day started a bit boring, on a narrow highway with no shoulder and too many trucks, but that's what happens usually when getting out of a busy town. That changed fast, soon we where back on a nice quiet road, bit of hills, but nothing scary and by 60 km we sat down at our beloved bus stop, ready to cook lunch.
Half way through our bowls of noodles, a line of pickup trucks stuffed with pineapples, pulls over next to us and get in the yard behind the bus stop.
A couple of people came out right away and started making conversation in a mix of Thai and English which we replied the same way.
Stuffed! And happy!
They where very nice. We asked about their work, they asked about us and we gave them a demonstration on how our cooking stove works, one of the men was really amazed!
Shortly after they brought us water, ice and a tray with 2 sliced pineapples (which we fastly stuffed down the head hole), the chatting went on for a bit longer, then we all went for a nap.
When we were about to leave, they came out with a bag of four pineapples, then continued to work. That added a bit of weight to the convoy but we couldn't say no! Especially after getting just a pic out of the huge bag of tamarind they offered us before!

The pineapple ninjas squad

The experience really gave a good start to the ride,besides that, for the next while, the road got really narrow and quiet, this time riding close enough to the Mekong to get the feeling we where actually following it. The river got really wide and slow, letting weird rock-formations and big sandy islands emerge.The accommodations got amazing too the next couple of days, in towns of Sangkhom and Pakchom where the view got spectacular and we could have easily spent a whole day staring at the water running by; but we had in mind to take that day in the old city of Chiang khan and riding hard on a bumpy 211we got there before lunch.




Town wasn't what we expected, accommodation wasn't worth for what you got and the town was really run down by tourism. we biked around for a while hunting down a cheap room away from the expensive waterline or something that would make us change our mind about the place...
It fast came, Mr Prayap, a teacher who runs a home stay, saw us riding up and down the road a few times and decided to give us a shout and offered us one of the rooms in his house for a very fare price!
A home stay is kind of an experience you are in people's house and that create a very nice atmosphere. We had a kitchen to cook in and spent a nice evening, sitting down with a nice man, exchanging stories and drinking coffee.






A very home made bridge connecting the restaurant to the bungalows

The amazing bungalow with river view we got in Sang Khom

They sure wanted to make you feel comfortable when they built this place

Chiang Khan by day

Cooking in Mr. Prayap's kitchen

Chiang Khan by night


The hills are waiting ahead